Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.